The First 30 Hours
I've been on the ice for 30 hours, but I've done and learned so much that it seems like several days. I'll try to reconstruct the order of events. I have no concept of time. I'm sure I'm forgetting things.
De-plane: I walked down the C-17 stairs onto the ice with the jets roaring, a temperature of -26°C, the wind gusting to a wind chill of -66°C, and people in red parkas welcoming me and telling me where to go. The place to go was to one of the vehicles, although many of us just wanted to wander and look around. We looked like lost red penguins.
Delta Ride: I rode in a Delta which is a very high trailer with benches on the side pulled by a tractor. I didn't take a picture of it, but I bet my dad can find one online (From Dad: http://www.sethwhite.org/images/mcmurdo/mcmurdo%20station/delta.jpg). Ian has a good picture of Bekah and me inside that I'll get from him. The windows were icy and snow blew in the back door. Apparently, the view was great on the drive in, if you rode in one of the vans that had clear windows.
Briefing & Meeting: We met in the dining hall for our orientation and safety briefing. This was for everyone on our flight. Afterward, we had a science team meeting. The two main purposes were to give us a schedule for more training and to discuss travel options back home after the field work. After filling in our return travel forms and giving them to Liz, we got our room keys.
Rooms, Bedding & Luggage: We tried our rooms keys, which worked for everyone except Ian. Then off to get bedding before the laundry closed. Third, up the hill to the luggage room where all the bags were laid out in no particular order. Half of them were identical orange bags provided by NSF, so there were lots of happy, helpful people helping you read the tags to find your own. Trucks and vans shuttled people off to their rooms. Our luggage filled one van so full, I rode in a different one and helped other people with their luggage. Someone else took mine to my room. For the first few days, I'm sharing a room with Bekah, Chelsea (who is working here for a year), and Lauralee (an undergrad who is working on two different field projects in the Dry Valleys).
Dinner: Lots of food, lots of meat, few vegetables. Great baked goods.
Evening Walk: I walked around McMurdo for an hour of so, going into Crary Lab (the science building), finding various views, and enjoying myself.
Sleep: I read and then slept. My room and bed is right next to the radio station, so there was a beat from the music, but it wasn't too bad to get a very good night of sleep.
Breakfast: Lots more food.
Light Vehicle Driver Training: An hour long lecture on driving in and around McMurdo as well as truck maintenance. The main points are: 1) Drive slowly; 2) Plug your truck in to keep it warm when it isn't being used; 3) Use the microbrake - a microbrake is added to the brake line and when you engage it and depress the brake pedal, it keeps the brake fluid from going back into the master cylinder, keeping the brakes engaged. They use this method rather than a hand brake because ice tends to freeze on the brake cables causing lots of problems; 4) Chock the wheels when you park to keep the truck from sliding down hill; 5) Unplug the truck, take the chock out, and disengage the microbrake before driving away; 6) If you are the first person to drive the truck that day, you have to go through a checklist which includes things like checking the oil, recording the number of service hours, etc.; 7) Trucks are not for personal use; 8) Ask for help as soon as something starts to go wrong; 9) Don't run over anyone.
Science Briefing: An introduction to 15 or so people whose jobs are to help us with our logistics. They each introduced themselves, provided critical information, and offered help. We talked to many of these people later in the day.
Happy Camper Training Schedule Discussions: Everyone has to go through Happy Camper (officially known as Snow School) training before being able to leave McMurdo. It's two days with an overnight in a snow shelter (or tent). Currently, we're scheduled for Happy Camper on Oct 16-17 which is really late. The Happy Camper schedule is way behind because of flight delays, and they are training people who set up field camps first. However, Dale is essential for setting up our field camp and has to be a Happy Camper because it's been more than 5 years since he last was one. Thus, there were several discussions with various people about how we might be able to change this. The first one was with several different people after the science briefing.
Home in Crary Lab: I found out where our lab is and left some stuff there.
Communications: We get VHF radios, wi-fi, and Iridium phones for the field. We talked to the man who is installing the repeaters to take the local VHF and wi-fi out to the Dry Valleys and then found out that they hadn't pulled our or communications equipment yet. They offered to do so, and the others picked it all up later in the afternoon. As PI of the project, Dale is supposed to have a pager while at McMurdo, so that's why we did this early. He now has one.
Dive Locker: The dive locker was on the way back to the science lab, and Dale is good friends with the dive masters, so we stopped there and talked to Steve for a while. They have lots of cool equipment, of course, and it is all very neatly organized. The overwhelming impression is one of very competent, friendly people wanting adventure. This was the first building where I realized that each place has its own distinctive smell. The dive locker smells like adventure.
Computer Password Change & More: To log onto the local computer network, one has to use a user name and password assigned to you. Of course you have to change your password when you log in the first time. My user name is sumnerda - too bad they added the "a". (Sasha - what does the "a" stand for?) I tried to change my password on the local Mac, and it wouldn't accept any of my passwords. I then tried the PC next to it, and it wouldn't let me log in. I talked to Katie in the Crary Lab office, and she gave me a number to call for help. Katie also is the person who arranges science talks, and Dale and I are giving one on Sunday. She told me the information she needed. I called the IT number, but no one answered because it was lunch time. After lunch, I called again, got the Help number, and then was told they didn't see a problem. I tried logging in again, and it didn't work, so I tried one of the passwords I tried to change it to, and that worked. Thus, the Mac had changed my password, it just told me it didn't.
Housing #1: As Co-PI, I can have "better" housing than I was assigned. I decided I'd like to move, so both Dale and I requested new rooms. I'd rather be with fewer people, even though it's only until Oct 18th or so. After explaining the various rules, Sheryl said she would work on it.
Lunch: Lots of food.
Crary Lab Tour: Cheryl gave us a tour of Crary lab, including the supply rooms and the hazards. There is an aquarium for field work on marine organisms, but there is almost nothing there right now. It's too early in the field season. We did see various echinoderms in a touch tank. There was also a spider-like crab.
Berg Field Center - camping equipment: We went to the building that houses, tests, and sorts all of the field gear. It is again a very friendly, well organized place. The upstairs has a creaky wood floor, old photos of people on adventures, and brought back vague impressions of the early Swallow's Nest. It is cozy in an adventuresome way. The BFC folks had already pulled out and tested most of our camping gear. Jessy said the one thing they still needed to work on was testing our propane heaters for the tents. They had just come in on today's flight and were sitting downstairs. The BFC equipment area - at least upstairs - smells like warm old wood.
Berg Field Center - cage: Our gear is currently stored it in a cage with a pad lock in the neighboring building. We checked some of it, including the beautiful Snowy Owl sleeping bags from Feathered Friends. They seem heavenly. I can hardly wait to crawl into one on a cold night. The ground floor smells like sawdust and regular dust.
Berg Field Center - food #1: Upstairs from the area with cage, there is a fantastic grocery store with a woman dedicated to making sure people have the food that they need. We had just dropped in, and Peggy was about to help some other people pull their food off the shelves, so we left and came back an hour later. The food area smells like home cooked, mildly spicy food.
Science Support Center: We stopped by the Science Support Center to find out about changes to the training schedule with Brian as well as to talk to Tony from the Mechanical and Engineering Center. MEC people arrange all the generators, the ice melter for dive holes, solar panels, etc. for the field. Brian and Tony were busy, so Dale and others will go back later.
Wireless Connection: I went to see Karen (head of Crary Lab IT) about a wireless connection, but she wasn't in her office, so I went down to see the other IT folks. Karen was there as well , and I now have wireless.
Berg Field Center - food #2: We then returned to the grocery store. We got a good tour. We also have a printed list of what's available. I've volunteered to organize the food, and I went through the list. We have a lot of good choices, and Peggy will help us with quantities, recipes, etc. She suggested that we start by selecting about half the food we'll need and then reorder it later. Helicopters can take it out to us.
Housing #2: Sheryl sent Dale and me an e-mail that we have new room assignments. We went and picked up keys, but we can't move until tomorrow afternoon because people get 24 hours notice before they get a new room mate, which is actually very considerate. Ian also came to get yet another key to try to get into his room. It didn't work again. They went back and tried a large number of keys, none of which worked. The locksmith will come tomorrow.
Dinner: Lots of food.
Sometime in there, I managed to send Katie information for the talk Dale and I are giving as well as work on some slides. And then I worked on this blog. It's been a busy 30 hours. I didn't even take any photos today, unfortunately. I need to keep my camera out tomorrow!
De-plane: I walked down the C-17 stairs onto the ice with the jets roaring, a temperature of -26°C, the wind gusting to a wind chill of -66°C, and people in red parkas welcoming me and telling me where to go. The place to go was to one of the vehicles, although many of us just wanted to wander and look around. We looked like lost red penguins.
Delta Ride: I rode in a Delta which is a very high trailer with benches on the side pulled by a tractor. I didn't take a picture of it, but I bet my dad can find one online (From Dad: http://www.sethwhite.org/images/mcmurdo/mcmurdo%20station/delta.jpg). Ian has a good picture of Bekah and me inside that I'll get from him. The windows were icy and snow blew in the back door. Apparently, the view was great on the drive in, if you rode in one of the vans that had clear windows.
Briefing & Meeting: We met in the dining hall for our orientation and safety briefing. This was for everyone on our flight. Afterward, we had a science team meeting. The two main purposes were to give us a schedule for more training and to discuss travel options back home after the field work. After filling in our return travel forms and giving them to Liz, we got our room keys.
Rooms, Bedding & Luggage: We tried our rooms keys, which worked for everyone except Ian. Then off to get bedding before the laundry closed. Third, up the hill to the luggage room where all the bags were laid out in no particular order. Half of them were identical orange bags provided by NSF, so there were lots of happy, helpful people helping you read the tags to find your own. Trucks and vans shuttled people off to their rooms. Our luggage filled one van so full, I rode in a different one and helped other people with their luggage. Someone else took mine to my room. For the first few days, I'm sharing a room with Bekah, Chelsea (who is working here for a year), and Lauralee (an undergrad who is working on two different field projects in the Dry Valleys).
Dinner: Lots of food, lots of meat, few vegetables. Great baked goods.
Evening Walk: I walked around McMurdo for an hour of so, going into Crary Lab (the science building), finding various views, and enjoying myself.
Sleep: I read and then slept. My room and bed is right next to the radio station, so there was a beat from the music, but it wasn't too bad to get a very good night of sleep.
Breakfast: Lots more food.
Light Vehicle Driver Training: An hour long lecture on driving in and around McMurdo as well as truck maintenance. The main points are: 1) Drive slowly; 2) Plug your truck in to keep it warm when it isn't being used; 3) Use the microbrake - a microbrake is added to the brake line and when you engage it and depress the brake pedal, it keeps the brake fluid from going back into the master cylinder, keeping the brakes engaged. They use this method rather than a hand brake because ice tends to freeze on the brake cables causing lots of problems; 4) Chock the wheels when you park to keep the truck from sliding down hill; 5) Unplug the truck, take the chock out, and disengage the microbrake before driving away; 6) If you are the first person to drive the truck that day, you have to go through a checklist which includes things like checking the oil, recording the number of service hours, etc.; 7) Trucks are not for personal use; 8) Ask for help as soon as something starts to go wrong; 9) Don't run over anyone.
Science Briefing: An introduction to 15 or so people whose jobs are to help us with our logistics. They each introduced themselves, provided critical information, and offered help. We talked to many of these people later in the day.
Happy Camper Training Schedule Discussions: Everyone has to go through Happy Camper (officially known as Snow School) training before being able to leave McMurdo. It's two days with an overnight in a snow shelter (or tent). Currently, we're scheduled for Happy Camper on Oct 16-17 which is really late. The Happy Camper schedule is way behind because of flight delays, and they are training people who set up field camps first. However, Dale is essential for setting up our field camp and has to be a Happy Camper because it's been more than 5 years since he last was one. Thus, there were several discussions with various people about how we might be able to change this. The first one was with several different people after the science briefing.
Home in Crary Lab: I found out where our lab is and left some stuff there.
Communications: We get VHF radios, wi-fi, and Iridium phones for the field. We talked to the man who is installing the repeaters to take the local VHF and wi-fi out to the Dry Valleys and then found out that they hadn't pulled our or communications equipment yet. They offered to do so, and the others picked it all up later in the afternoon. As PI of the project, Dale is supposed to have a pager while at McMurdo, so that's why we did this early. He now has one.
Dive Locker: The dive locker was on the way back to the science lab, and Dale is good friends with the dive masters, so we stopped there and talked to Steve for a while. They have lots of cool equipment, of course, and it is all very neatly organized. The overwhelming impression is one of very competent, friendly people wanting adventure. This was the first building where I realized that each place has its own distinctive smell. The dive locker smells like adventure.
Computer Password Change & More: To log onto the local computer network, one has to use a user name and password assigned to you. Of course you have to change your password when you log in the first time. My user name is sumnerda - too bad they added the "a". (Sasha - what does the "a" stand for?) I tried to change my password on the local Mac, and it wouldn't accept any of my passwords. I then tried the PC next to it, and it wouldn't let me log in. I talked to Katie in the Crary Lab office, and she gave me a number to call for help. Katie also is the person who arranges science talks, and Dale and I are giving one on Sunday. She told me the information she needed. I called the IT number, but no one answered because it was lunch time. After lunch, I called again, got the Help number, and then was told they didn't see a problem. I tried logging in again, and it didn't work, so I tried one of the passwords I tried to change it to, and that worked. Thus, the Mac had changed my password, it just told me it didn't.
Housing #1: As Co-PI, I can have "better" housing than I was assigned. I decided I'd like to move, so both Dale and I requested new rooms. I'd rather be with fewer people, even though it's only until Oct 18th or so. After explaining the various rules, Sheryl said she would work on it.
Lunch: Lots of food.
Crary Lab Tour: Cheryl gave us a tour of Crary lab, including the supply rooms and the hazards. There is an aquarium for field work on marine organisms, but there is almost nothing there right now. It's too early in the field season. We did see various echinoderms in a touch tank. There was also a spider-like crab.
Berg Field Center - camping equipment: We went to the building that houses, tests, and sorts all of the field gear. It is again a very friendly, well organized place. The upstairs has a creaky wood floor, old photos of people on adventures, and brought back vague impressions of the early Swallow's Nest. It is cozy in an adventuresome way. The BFC folks had already pulled out and tested most of our camping gear. Jessy said the one thing they still needed to work on was testing our propane heaters for the tents. They had just come in on today's flight and were sitting downstairs. The BFC equipment area - at least upstairs - smells like warm old wood.
Berg Field Center - cage: Our gear is currently stored it in a cage with a pad lock in the neighboring building. We checked some of it, including the beautiful Snowy Owl sleeping bags from Feathered Friends. They seem heavenly. I can hardly wait to crawl into one on a cold night. The ground floor smells like sawdust and regular dust.
Berg Field Center - food #1: Upstairs from the area with cage, there is a fantastic grocery store with a woman dedicated to making sure people have the food that they need. We had just dropped in, and Peggy was about to help some other people pull their food off the shelves, so we left and came back an hour later. The food area smells like home cooked, mildly spicy food.
Science Support Center: We stopped by the Science Support Center to find out about changes to the training schedule with Brian as well as to talk to Tony from the Mechanical and Engineering Center. MEC people arrange all the generators, the ice melter for dive holes, solar panels, etc. for the field. Brian and Tony were busy, so Dale and others will go back later.
Wireless Connection: I went to see Karen (head of Crary Lab IT) about a wireless connection, but she wasn't in her office, so I went down to see the other IT folks. Karen was there as well , and I now have wireless.
Berg Field Center - food #2: We then returned to the grocery store. We got a good tour. We also have a printed list of what's available. I've volunteered to organize the food, and I went through the list. We have a lot of good choices, and Peggy will help us with quantities, recipes, etc. She suggested that we start by selecting about half the food we'll need and then reorder it later. Helicopters can take it out to us.
Housing #2: Sheryl sent Dale and me an e-mail that we have new room assignments. We went and picked up keys, but we can't move until tomorrow afternoon because people get 24 hours notice before they get a new room mate, which is actually very considerate. Ian also came to get yet another key to try to get into his room. It didn't work again. They went back and tried a large number of keys, none of which worked. The locksmith will come tomorrow.
Dinner: Lots of food.
Sometime in there, I managed to send Katie information for the talk Dale and I are giving as well as work on some slides. And then I worked on this blog. It's been a busy 30 hours. I didn't even take any photos today, unfortunately. I need to keep my camera out tomorrow!
